36 Hours in Palm Beach, Fla.

Thank you for your time with my blogs and welcome back in the near future.

March 7, 2010

By GERALDINE FABRIKANT

PALM BEACHERS may have tightened their Gucci belts in the wake of the Bernard Madoff scandal. The Ponzi scheme cleaned out some local bank accounts, and the recession curtailed the lust for Limoges and other such items. Still, judging by the perfectly clipped hedges that envelop the manicured mansions, residents may be doing with less, but not much less. The tiny island, north of Fort Lauderdale on Florida’s east coast, still boasts some of the country’s dreamiest estates, where the staff lives better than many Americans, cashmere sweaters in trademark pastel greens and pinks go for $800, and Rolls-Royces show up at Publix with regularity in a town where more is never quite enough.

Friday

4 p.m.
1) THE BIG GAPE

Big money means big house, so rent a nice convertible and stare. For envy-inducing views of these winter palaces, drive south along South Ocean Boulevard for about six miles starting at Barton Avenue. Even those obsessed with privacy relish their ocean views (why pay millions for beachfront if you can’t enjoy it?), which means the gates and hedges along these mansions are slightly lower than elsewhere in town. You can catch a glimpse of the Mar-a-Lago Club, Donald Trump’s former residence, now a private club owned by Mr. Trump.

6:30 p.m.
2) GRANDE DAME

For a sunset cocktail, glide into the Breakers Hotel (1 South County Road; 561-655-6611; thebreakers.com), originally built in 1896. So central is its location that the hotel has been rebuilt twice after fires destroyed it. The Seafood Bar has delightful views of the sea. If you prefer upholstered opulence, head for the Tapestry Bar with its two Flemish tapestries and a grand bar built from a mantel from Caxton Hall in London.

8:30 p.m.
3) DINER’S CLUB

Palm Beach dining runs from supremely pretentious to casually simple. Many restaurants survive over decades, and because Palm Beach is a small town, where the same cast shows up frequently, they have the feel of private clubs. The Palm Beach Grill (340 Royal Poinciana Way; 561-835-1077; palmbeachgrill.com) is a darkly wooded, dimly lighted social fixture that is a favorite of the author James Patterson and almost everyone else. If the mobbed dining room is for the island’s old guard, the bar seems to attract newcomers: snowbirds deciding whether to move South, city types longing for a slower, more glamorous life and locals who want to have fun. Don’t miss American classics like spare ribs and ice cream sundaes. Dinner for two, from $80. Book before you fly.

Saturday

8 a.m.
4) EMPTY BEACHES

Park on South Ocean Boulevard and take a long, languorous walk on the beach. The beaches here are flat, wide, clean and wonderful in the early morning when there are not many people around.

9 a.m.
5) EARLY SNOWBIRDS

This may be a party town, but it wakes up early. A clutch of restaurants along Royal Poinciana Way are busy by 8:30 a.m., with diners sitting outside and savoring the sunshine and breakfast. Testa’s Palm Beach Restaurant (221 Royal Poinciana Way; 561-832-0992; testasrestaurants.com), a sprawling, relaxed space, serves blueberry, pecan and bran pancakes ($6.25). Around the corner is Green’s Pharmacy (151 North County Road; 561-832-4443), which offers breakfast at an old-fashioned lunch counter. Afterward, pick up candy buttons and other long-forgotten stuff.

10:30 a.m.
6) HISTORY CLASS

For an authentic sense of Palm Beach in its early days, drop by the Flagler Museum (1 Whitehall Way; 561-655-2833; flaglermuseum.us). It was once the home of Henry Morrison Flagler, one of the founders of Standard Oil, and the man who brought the railroad to southern Florida. He spent millions in 1902 to build the 55-room house that became a hotel and finally a museum. Admission, $18.

Noon
7) RETAIL STRUT

On Worth Avenue, where every brand that you’ve seen in Vogue has a storefront, the real fun is the crowd: women in green cashmere sweaters walking dogs in matching outfits; elderly gents with bow ties and blazers. But the true gems — Cartier aside — are the smaller, lesser-known stores that have survived by wit and originality. Maryanna Suzanna (313 Worth Avenue; 561-833-0204) carries colorful jewelry by Monies and the Italian designer Angela Caputi — some earrings are under $50. Across the street, Sherry Frankel’s Melangerie (256 Worth Avenue; 561-655-1996) sells amusing plastic watches for $68. And nearby is Il Sandalo (240 Worth Avenue; 561-805-8674; ilsandalo.com), where the shoemaker Hernan Garcia makes custom sandals starting at $195. For lunch, head to Ta-boo (221 Worth Avenue, 561-835-3500; taboorestaurant.com), with its British colonial décor where women swathed in white linen with enormous straw hats pick carefully at the chopped chef’s salad ($15.95).

3:30 p.m.
8) GILT TRIP

It’s a challenge to fill up those sprawling estates with furniture, but there are armies of antiques merchants poised to try. Antiques enthusiasts can start at the elegant French dealer Cedric Dupont (820 South Dixie Highway; 561-835-1319; cedricdupontantiques.com) and go all the way south to Southern Boulevard to the Elephant’s Foot (3800 South Dixie Highway; 561-832-0170; theelephantsfoot.com), which has a range of English. French and Oriental antiques at varying prices. Or for a resale find, try Circa Who (531 Northwood Road; 561-655-5224; circawho.com), with funky faux bamboo, retro and Old Florida furniture.

8 p.m.
9) MEDITERRANEAN FLAVOR

For a casual dinner in the heart of town, head to Cucina Dell’Arte (257 Royal Poinciana Way; 561-655-0770; cucinadellarte.com), which is popular with a younger crowd and is open until 3 a.m. It is decorated in the earth tones and mustards and peaches typical of the Mediterranean and seems to be busy all day with families, couples and groups of friends. You can eat outdoors and watch the crowds go by. Try the pollo cacciatore ($25).

10:30 p.m.
10) PARTY TIME

There are plenty of big jewels in Palm Beach, but they are generally worn at private parties. The night life for visitors is casual. Stop in for a drink at the very pretty Brazilian Court Hotel (301 Australian Avenue; 561-655-7740; thebraziliancourt.com) where the chef Daniel Boulud runs the restaurants. Order a Bikini Martini, with Sagatiba cachaça and passion fruit purée. On Saturdays a small band or D.J. plays in the lobby until 1 a.m., attracting a preppy crowd. Or head across the bridge to Blue Martini (City Place; 561-835-8601; bluemartinilounge.com) in a trendy shopping mall, where you can sip a martini and hear the music pour out of B. B. King’s Blues Club next door.

Sunday

10 a.m.
11) HIT THE TRAIL

A flat and easy bike trail hugs the Intracoastal Waterway, which skirts the west side of Palm Beach, and offers fantastic views of the Marina in West Palm Beach. Rent a bike at Palm Beach Bicycle Trail Shop (223 Sunrise Avenue; 561-659-4583; palmbeachbicycle.com), which has multispeed bikes starting at $15 an hour. If bikes are not your thing, you can jog the route.

1 p.m.
12) STAYING COOL

The Four Seasons, the Ritz-Carlton and others have all staked claims to the beachfront along South Ocean Boulevard. The new hot spot belongs to the Miami chef Michelle Bernstein, who recently opened two restaurants at the Omphoy Ocean Resort (2842 South Ocean Boulevard, 561-540-6450; omphoy.com). The sleekly elegant spaces are furnished in dark woods with views of the sea. Even on cool and overcast days during the winter, the lunch restaurant MB Terrace draws a diverse crowd. Try the seafood ceviche ($14). After all, this is Palm Beach, where a meal on the beach is a must.

IF YOU GO

There are numerous nonstop flights from the New York City area to Palm Beach International Airport. Continental flies from Newark; Delta from La Guardia; and JetBlue out of La Guardia and Kennedy Airport. A recent Web search found fares on JetBlue and Delta starting at $199 for travel in March. A rental car is recommended to get around.

The Breakers (1 South County Road; 561-655-6611; thebreakers.com) is a 550-room stunner directly on the beach, with swimming pools, tennis and golf. It also has several restaurants, as well as a spa. Rooms start at $499 with a $100 credit toward activities at the hotel.

The Chesterfield (363 Cocoanut Row; 561-659-5800; www.chesterfieldpb.com) is a 52-room boutique hotel within walking distance of Worth Avenue. The rooms are elegantly appointed, some with flowered print wallpaper and upholstery, and the Leopard Lounge, with its leopard print carpet, is popular at night. Rooms start at $319.

The Marriott West Palm Beach (1001 Okeechobee Boulevard; 561-833-1234; marriott.com/westpalmbeach) is a safe choice if you want to be close to Palm Beach, with rooms starting at $229.

Thank you for your time with my blogs and welcome back in the near future.

December 6, 2009

36 Hours in South Beach, Fla.

By DAMIEN CAVE

SOUTH BEACH gets a lot of abuse from residents. Too much cologne, critics say; too expensive, too crowded. But like other American meccas of decadence, SoBe still has an irresistible, democratic pull. For everyone from the pale Iowa retiree to the Bentley-driving rapper, it remains the place to strut shamelessly. And even jaded locals still indulge. They may not be taking photos. And perhaps they’ll be dressed a bit more causally, but bet on this: They’re checking in with the classics and keeping up with the latest trends like everyone else — except they don’t need to flaunt it.

Friday

5 p.m.
1) ON THE BOARDWALK

The beach never gets old. For the timeless South Beach experience, amble along to the wooden boardwalk that extends from 21st to 47th Street before city planners replace the raised platform with a ground-level path. Take in the views: on one side is the ocean; the other, the crumbling, yet-to-be-renovated Art Deco hotels that offer a Pompeii-like look back at Miami Beach when diving boards and peach walls still dominated. Then dive into the present at an of-the-moment spot: the rooftop pool at the Gansevoort South (2377 Collins Avenue; 305-604-1000; www.gansevoortsouth.com). Sip a SoBe Carnival (cachaça, pineapple juice and muddled basil; $13) and enjoy the views of either the ocean or the party people.

7 p.m.
2) MUSIC, NOT DANCING

House. Salsa. Hip-hop. South Beach has many soundtracks, but few musical institutions here are as beloved as the New World Symphony (541 Lincoln Road; 305-673-3330; www.nws.edu), an orchestral academy founded by Michael Tilson Thomas, music director of the San Francisco Symphony. Providing mixed-media extravaganzas one night, free student concerts the next, it manages to be both high-brow and accessible. Be sure to compare the symphony’s current Art Deco home at the Lincoln Theater to its future headquarters: the building designed by Frank Gehry going up a block north.

9 p.m.
3) DESIGNER EXCURSION

You could follow the herd to Prime Italian (101 Ocean Drive; 305-695-8484; www.primeitalianmiami.com), where Kobe meatballs are a specialty. But lighter, slow-food fare (at better prices) can be found across Biscayne Bay at Fratelli Lyon (4141 Northeast Second Avenue; 305-572-2901; www.fratellilyon.com). Just the fresh cheeses and artisanal olive oil make it worth the trip. Plus, you’ll leave with energy to dance. So go straight to the Florida Room at the Delano (1685 Collins Avenue; 305-674-6152; www.delano-hotel.com), where on most Fridays Angela Laino belts out funk and soul backed by a band rich with brass.

Saturday

7 a.m.
4) SANDY STRETCH

In the 10-plus years that October Rose (yes, a real person) has offered yoga on South Beach (www.yogasouthbeach.org), it has become a 365-day-a-year institution. Sometimes there are as many as 20 people near the usual lifeguard stand at Third Street, each donating about $5, but on one recent morning, only a single limber student could be seen: Tommy Tune, the song-and-dance legend who happens to be a regular. “This is my real love on South Beach,” he said, looking relaxed after his latest session, “it’s yoga.” And since all that locust posing will make you hungry, head to A La Folie (516 Espanola Way; 305-538-4484; www.alafoliecafe.com), a hidden French gem where a butter-sugar crepe with a cappuccino costs only $6.50.

11 a.m.
5) VINTAGE AND VIXENS

Sure, you could buy something new. The malls would love you for it. But why not be both cool and conservationist by going consignment? Fly Boutique (650 Lincoln Road; 305-604-8508; www.flyboutiquevintage.com) is overflowing with few-of-a-kind items, from Emilio Pucci scarves for less than $100 to classic Levis and even Louis Vuitton luggage large enough for a move to Europe (though the trunk will cost you $1,495). Beatnix (1149 Washington Street; 305-532-8733; www.beatnixmiami.com) offers a costume-centric mix, heavy on the polyester. It’s also where South Beach’s vixen bartenders buy their get-ups. For $149, Beatnix will make a corset-tutu combo.

1 p.m.
6) COOK BOOKS

Miamians sometimes joke that their most popular independent bookseller — Books and Books — should be renamed Book and Book because of how little residents read. Regardless, the food and service at its South Beach cafe (927 Lincoln Road; 305-532-3222; www.booksandbooks.com) are as consistent as Carl Hiaasen’s sense of humor. The Key West crab cakes ($12.95) are rich in flavor, but not too heavy, and the homemade cupcakes and Illy espresso might explain why Malcolm Gladwell and other writers spend hours lollygagging at the outdoor tables. Or maybe it really is the books: after all, the store did expand last year.

3 p.m.
7) FORE!

Now it’s time for some brawn. Try hitting a large bucket of balls ($12) at Miami Beach Golf Club (2301 Alton Road; 305-532-3350; www.miamibeachgolfclub.com). As you hook your drive toward the not-so-distant Atlantic, try to imagine the view in 1923, when the course opened, or during World War II, when the Army rented the course for $1 a day and tossed smoke grenades all over the greens.

8 p.m.
8) GO GATSBY

Travel back in time again. First stop, the Betsy Hotel (1440 Ocean Drive; 305-531-6100; www.thebetsyhotel.com), newly renovated to capture an old-fashioned charm that flappers could appreciate — especially in the surrounding sea of neon. The hotel’s restaurant, BLT Steak (305-673-0044; www.bltsteak.com), part of the upscale steakhouse chain, essentially sits in the lobby. All the better for watching the wealthy and established mix with the young and skimpy. The popovers and aged beef aren’t bad either, though prices are best forgotten in a drunken haze: dinner for two with wine and dessert costs around $170.

11 p.m.
9) HIGHS AND LOWS

Remember when the villains of “Goldfinger” cheated at cards, or when Tony Montana in “Scarface” declared “this is paradise” by the pool? It was at the Fontainebleau (4441 Collins Avenue; 305-538-2000; www.fontainebleau.com). And after a two-year, $1 billion renovation that may end up bankrupting the owners, the FB is back. If you can get past the velvet rope, sashay downstairs into Liv, the hotel nightclub where weekends usually include a big celebrity (Jennifer Lopez was a recent visitor). If that fails, drink martinis in the lobby, designed by Morris Lapidus, which was also restored. The famous bowtie-tile floors remain, as does the staircase to nowhere, designed solely for grand entrances. Finish the night down to earth, with some cheap beer and pool at Mac’s Club Deuce (222 14th Street; 305-531-6200), a classic dive bar that draws drunks, drag queens, cops and traveling executives.

Sunday

9 a.m.
10) THE DEEP END

South Pointe Park, at the tip of South Beach, has been treated to a $22 million facelift, and while it looks fantastic, some of the best sights are in the water. The pier is a great place for snorkeling, surfing or fishing, with stingrays, bright tropical fish and lots of colorful locals. You can rent a full snorkeling package for $20 a day at Tarpoon Dive Center (300 Alton Road; 305-532-1445; www.tarpoondivecenter.com).

12 p.m.
11) SOAK AND GO

Reliable regeneration can be found with brunch and a good cleansing at the Standard hotel’s spa (www.standardhotels.com), part of a 1920s motor lodge that André Balazs turned into a holistic oasis a few years ago. Massages start at $125 for an hour, but for $25, try soaking in a private tub overlooking Biscayne Bay, where cinnamon, mint and honeysuckle flower will attempt to detoxify your soul, or at least your body. Finish up by the pool with an ahi tuna niçoise salad ($18) and an Arnold Palmer — that would be half lemonade, half iced tea for all you non-Floridians.

THE BASICS

With most major airlines flying to Miami, getting to South Beach is easy, which is part of its appeal. A recent online search found American flights from La Guardia starting at about $200 for travel in mid-December. Taxis from the airport to anywhere south of 71st Street in Miami Beach are a flat $32.

Despite the recession, several hotels have recently opened. Among the swankiest is the W South Beach (2201 Collins Avenue; 305-938-3000; www.wsouthbeach.com), where every room offers ocean views, a Bose sound system and enough gray marble in the bathrooms to make you feel like you’re in a hamam. Rooms start at $384.

The Gansevoort South (2377 Collins Avenue; 305-604-1000; www.gansevoortsouth.com) has 334 rooms with slightly higher prices, from $395, in a building it renovated but still shares with longtime residents (who use a separate entrance). The enormous pools are a highlight.

Midbeach — which means more cab rides — sits the Fontainebleau and its $1 billion renovation (4441 Collins Avenue; 305-538-2000; www.fontainebleau.com). Rooms start at $429 plus a $12.95 resort fee.